There are few places in the world to really escape from it all anymore, particularly in tropical regions where resorts line beach fronts and are often crowded with obnoxious travelers that come devoid of all manners and are often lugging children that are equally as self-unaware and continually annoy guests around them with chronic squealing and rambunctiousness. But we've found one, and maybe I shouldn't even divulge its location out of fear that it will ruin the entire area. But ... here it is:
LAPA RIOS!
Our bungalow, Cabin #3. There are no walls, only screens, separating guests from the jungle, and that means the wonderful sounds of howler monkeys, macaws, toucans and all sorts of chirping bugs and frogs find their way into your cabin. Wonderful!
Located out on the remote Osa Peninsula, Lapa Rios, a 5-star ecolodge, sits in the buffer zone between the Golfo Dulce and Corcovado National Park and uses its 1000 acre preserve (80 percent of which is virgin lowland rain forest) to not only protect said buffer zone, but also to educate the public on the importance of keeping forests like theirs left standing. They do this by simply showcasing their property via 16 bungalows sprawled across a ledge overlooking the ocean, with the rain forest spreading out to the sides and behind the rooms. The Rooms are connected by walkways, and while some of the rooms are a bit far from the main dining lodge, the feeling of being out in the jungle in your own private place pervades and the sounds of the ocean and forest critters come to life all around.
The main dining lodge at Lapa Rios. The spiral stairway leads to an observation deck, where you can view the jungle and, if you're lucky, get close-up views of toucans and scarlet macaws hanging out high in the treetops.
Food is all included at Lapa Rios, as are most nonalcoholic drinks that don't come in glass bottles (juice, water). The breakfast and lunch menus remain the same each day, offering a wide variety of choices. My favorite breakfast / lunch option is the traditional Casado, consisting of black beans and rice, fried plantains, salad and a choice of meat (chicken, beef or pork). The pancakes with granola and banana cooked into them are also quite good and are served with a trio of guava coconut, blackberry and maple syrups. For lunch, try the Tico Tostada, a taco salad of sorts that sits in a large crispy tortilla "bowl" filled with lettuce, grilled chicken, tomato, cheddar cheese, guacamole and black olives. I ate this nearly everyday for lunch, and so should you. Since food is flown in daily, guests order their dinner selections at breakfast, which seems a bit odd at first, but you quickly get into the whole process. The dinner menu changes everyday and rotates through seven different menus throughout the week. Overall, the offerings are decent to well above average, and in some cases (try the brownie!) DELICIOUS. Keep in mind that: 1. You're in Costa Rica, which isn't known for its cuisine, and 2. You're in the middle of nowhere in Costa Rica, and anything outside of rice and beans and boiled chicken should be praised. Given those two facts, the food at Lapa Rios is spectacular, varied and beautifully presented. Honestly, it's the best food we have had anywhere in Costa Rica, and last time we were in Costa Rica we spent three weeks visiting nearly every corner of the country. The one area that they can work on are the desserts, which are a bit ambitious given the locale and available ingredients, humidity, etc. and should focus more heavily on the wonderful assortment of fresh tropical fruits they have unlimited amounts of. But again, the brownie is pretty damn good!
It's a beautiful pool to take a dip in, but I highly advise not spending your whole vacation there, or even a single day.
So, what does one do at Lapa Rios? Well, there is a pool if you're of the mindset that vacation is merely for lounging about poolside sipping piña coladas. And technically, you could do that. Some guests do and I'm sure they have a lovely time, but my take on Lapa Rios is to treat the resort as a museum of natural tropical things to be studied, admired and sought out from the deck of your bungalow, sometimes
inside your bungalow, along the roads and beaches and especially in the forests via the self-guided and professional guided trails. It's about seeing a side of nature that few get to see, that's quickly disappearing as beaches and forests are hacked to bits. It's about respecting what's in front of you and sharing what you've seen with everyone you know. So, if you're going to make it all the way out to Lapa Rios with intentions of crashing at the pool and calling it a vacation, for the love of all things rare and beautiful, don't! There's so, so, so much to see. The pool is nice, though, and well worth a dip here and there ...
everyday!
White face monkeys are relatively easy to spot in and around Lapa Rios. I found this guy and about 30 of his rambunctious friends leaping through trees along Matapalo Road, which runs along the beach and provides a fun walk while staying at the hotel.
Seeing the area, including Corcovado National Park (which must be arranged with the front desk staff upon arrival to Lapa Rios if this is something you'd like to do), couldn't be easier due to the efficient means in which the staff at Lapa Rios juggles all of the details -- ground transportation, guides, flights, boats and even packed lunches are all figured out for you -- leaving you with nothing to do but enjoy the experience. The guides that Lapa Rios has on staff are superior, particularly Edwin, Ulises and their newest guide, Marcia, a biologist with a passion for insects, snakes, frogs and birds. She comes armed with various high-tech bird calls on her iPod, which she blasts through the forest on handheld speakers to attract rare and rarely seen species, such as many nocturnal owls, right to her group as they wind through trails of Lapa Rios' preserve.
Bright green baby iguanas like this one are commonplace all around Costa Rica, as are some fairly large specimens. The resident iguana of Lapa Rios, Lorenzo, regularly hangs out at the pool and occasionally even takes a dip.
So, the rundown on Lapa Rios:
Who is it for? Anyone who loves nature, hiking, exploring and learning about tropical ecosystems.
Is Lapa Rios right for kids? That's a tough question, and one that I'd have to answer, "It depends on the kid." If your child has a passion for wildlife and can tolerate long stretches of time with little to do but admire said wildlife (and flora), then by all means book your trip. It's a wonderful place to bring your kids provided you know what you're getting into, but keep in mind it's an intimate setting and that, if there's a kid or two in your party who would rather spend time yelling and running and doing cannonballs at the pool, the entire atmosphere of the hotel can turn sour. And you'll feel the heat from glaring guests -- believe me, I've glared at two or three parents with unruly offspring. I would suggest a minimum age of 10 for girls and 12 for boys (which equals about 10 years of maturity in girl years, sorry boys...), unless you really, truly feel your kid would get into it and appreciate it enough not to run around and scream like, well, a kid.
Is the hotel tough to get to? From most major metropolitan areas in the States, you can take a direct flight to San Jose. I would recommend staying a night at a hotel near the airport (the
Marriott is super nice) in San Jose and then taking either a Nature Air or a Sansa flight out the next morning. Lapa Rios will figure out all of your local flights, and I recommend you let them take over that portion for you. To avoid rocky weather and cancelled planes, which tend to plague afternoon flights, try to take as early a flight as possible to the Osa Peninsula. Once there, it's a quick (yet bumpy) 45-minute ride in a truck or jeep to Lapa Rios. From Manhattan, the flight is about 4.5 hours to San Jose. The flight to Puerto Jimenez on the Osa Peninsula takes about 1 hour, which includes a stop in Drake Bay beforehand.
Best time to go? Anytime of year is fine, really. The wet season does bring rain -- it's a RAIN forest, after all -- but even so, the rain comes in spurts of an hour or so at a time (usually late afternoon and evening), and there's nothing like witnessing the rush of rain that the wet season (June - October) brings. Lapa Rios tends to fill up months in advance just about anytime of year, so be sure to
CHECK AVAILABILITY and book your trip as early as possible.
The carbunko, or "headlight" beetle, is one of many fascinating insects that might make it into your cabin at night. These beetles glow brightly from the two "headlights" located at the top of their heads and are completely harmless.
Lapa Rios gets an A+ from me for providing an exceptional platform from which to explore the delicate, rare and beautiful Osa Peninsula.
Visit the Lapa Rios website for more information and to make a reservation:
www.LapaRios.com
Here is a blow-by-blow rundown of my most recent trip to Lapa Rios:
DAY 1 **
DAY 2 **
DAY 3 **
DAY 4 **
DAY 5 **
DAY 6 **
DAY 7 **
DAY 8 **
DAY 9
VIDEO 1 (brief hello from the Lapa Rios preserve) **
VIDEO 2 (some shots of the flight to Lapa Rios and the hotel itself -- but I talk too much in this video!) **
VIDEO 3 (Hermit Crabs) **
VIDEO 4 (Carbunko Beetles) **
VIDEO 5 (Corcovado National Park) **
VIDEO 6 (Coati) **
VIDEO 7 (Lizards) **
VIDEO 8 (Monkeys) **
VIDEO 9 (view from within the Lapa Rios Reserve) **
VIDEO 10 (Casa Orquidea, sounds from Lapa Rios and the final Flight From Hell through a storm)
LINK TO MORE PHOTOS (might only work if you have a Facebook account)